The Island of Hvar and the Quest for Suckling Pig


After leaving Plitvice Lakes, before we went on to Split, my partner and I ate at a restaurant near the lakes. Among other Croatian specialties, they boasted whole roasted suckling pig. I wanted nothing more than to eat this delicious animal, but the cost was just too high to justify it.

The next morning we ventured to Split, and after having a great time in the Venetian city, are taking the ferry to Hvar, an island known for its natural beauty and hard-partying atmosphere. What we ended up getting was better than we imagined.

The ferry ride is easy, with beautiful views but no way to walk on the dock to catch the wind. When we arrive on Hvar, we check in to our hostel and meet our roommates, three amazing Brazilians who quickly become our friends. I ask the woman at reception where we should swim and she sends us to a beach that is a bit of a walk. But it’s worth it, she says. Today is Labor Day and there will be a party with some free food.

Followed by our new Brazilian friends, Felipe, Thales, and Malu we walk to the beach. When we arrive, there is much more than the baked beans we were promised. There are free draft beers, cocktails, and four whole suckling pigs turning slowly over a fire. All of it is donation-based. We pay ten euros and eat many pig parts and drink many beverages. Then it is time to swim.


The water is clear, clean, and cold. It feels amazing and refreshing, but is so freezing that no one else wants to swim with me. Still, floating in the calm water, looking towards an even smaller island, and new friends calling to me from the beach, it is a perfect moment. A moment I will always remember. After talking about politics on the beach, we head back, rest, shower, and get ready to party. We pre-game with some Cards Against Humanity and head out with the hostel’s designated pub crawl leader. A Californian girl, we ask her how it is to drink for a living on Hvar. It’s paradise, she says.

We have cocktails at a hip, laid-back spot before going over to a club overrun by a group of Dutch people all wearing matching shirts. It is hilarious, all of it. We meet many people who won’t likely remember us the next morning and head back when the bar is about to close.

It was one day on Hvar, and tomorrow we head to Dubrovnik, but I wouldn’t have had it any other way.



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